| 03 August 2009
Whether you’re a label Mabel or a vintage Vera, Edinburgh shopping is sure to test the limits of your credit cards. Ruth Walker gives us the lowdown.
For any capital city to be considered truly great it must first fulfill several criteria. So think awe-inspiring architecture (check), earth-shattering cultural attractions (check) and mouth-watering bars and restaurants (check).
Then there is the more prosaic but no less important consideration of world-class, credit card-busting shopping. And whether your wish list features the latest Balenciaga gladiator sandals, the must-have limited edition scarf dress by Kate Moss for Topshop or a one-off piece of vintage chic, Edinburgh has the lot in bags. Check it out.
For label Mabels, any serious shopping trip has to kick off in Multrees Walk, home to luxe leatherwear brands Louis Vuitton and Mulberry - its delectable, strokable violet suede Abigail tote is the stuff of handbag fantasies. You might also want to pick up some Calvin Klein undies, a pair of G-Star jeans or one of Links of London’s celebrated charm bracelets while you’re passing. But most famous of all in this civilised slice of pedestrianised Edinburgh is Harvey Nichols’ first-ever Scottish outpost.
Opened in 2002 on the eastern end of St Andrew Square, this designer heaven has become a destination in its own right, stocking brands ranging from the edgy Lanvin and 3.1 Philip Lim to menswear by Elvis Jesus and D&G and lacy little sweet nothings by Elle Macpherson and Mimi Holliday.
But before the HN empire ventured north, stylish Edinburghers got their design fix from Corniche, on the Old Town’s Jeffrey Street. Established by Nina Grant 33 years ago, it was the first store to bring cutting-edge Japanese designers such as Yamamoto and Miyake to the capital. These days it’s the place to go for one of Vivienne Westwood’s Summer Tartan handbags or a super chic Marithe Francois Girbaud fitted jacket.
In just one block of cobbled Thistle Street, meanwhile, you will find Pam Jenkins, whose collection of Louboutins and Jimmy Choos is unmatched in the city; Jane Davidson, the destination of choice if you’re in the market for an iconic Herve Leger bandage dress, as worn by everyone from Lindsay Lohan to Beth Ditto; and the Danish outlet Kakao by K, for the best of Scandinavian design. Think pretty boho chic and minimalist workwear and you’ll be along the right lines. It also stocks its own jewellery collection - I love the feminine bird and angel wing motifs in gold-plated sterling silver.
One street up from Thistle Street is George Street, where you can wander from east to west for preppy casual wear at Jack Wills and classic tailoring from the legendary Brooks Brothers to the eclectic, quirky fashions of Whistles and Jigsaw. Across the street, Cruise stocks designer menswear by Prada, Paul Smith and Patrick Cox. Then there’s cutesy country interiors and accessories by Cath Kidston and designer diamonds from Lime Blue. It’s a girl’s best trend.
Next up is Princes Street, where you’ll find most of the usual high street suspects, from House of Fraser at the West End, through River Island, Debenhams, M&S, Next and shoes by Office, to a new and improved Topshop at the east. But where Edinburgh really excels is in its range of independents. So take yourself off the well-trodden path and explore William Street, where Sam Thomas specialises in the kind of handbags you won’t find anywhere else in the city and Helen Bateman sources unique, colourful shoes from all over Europe. Boobytrap, as the name might suggest, is a boudoir of brilliant lingerie, stocking hard-to-find labels such as Princess Tam Tam. Even better, while you’re finding out your correct cup size, you can feast on yummy cupcakes and freshly brewed coffee - it’s all very Sex And The City.
Then there’s my favourite, Arkangel, a treasure trove filled with exclusive pieces by names such as Allegra Hicks and Anonymous, delectable, sparkling jewellery from the likes of Butler & Wilson and Les Nereides and retro hats and fascinators by Lou Bythell.
On the subject of hats, don’t miss out on a trip to Yvette Jelfs’ fabulous workshop and store in Albany Street, where you could spend hours trying on all manner of millinery, from panamas to mini-toppers to over-the-top ostrich feather creations for a My Fair Lady-style day at the races.
Back in the Old Town, in Greyfriars Place, Joe Cool is the destination for fashion and novelty jewellery, funky gifts and witty greetings cards while, down Candlemaker Row and into the Grassmarket, you soon hit prime vintage territory. Armstrong’s is renowned as an Aladdin’s cave of glorious retro finds. Kylie Minogue and Franz Ferdinand are among the famous faces that have raked through its rails in search of a unique item of clothing. But whether you’re after an original pair of Levi 501s, a prom dress circa 1966 or something to make you really stand out from the fancy dress crowd, Armstrong’s won’t disappoint.
Nearby, Barnardo’s has a specialist vintage shop, stocking the pick of its donations at bargain prices (there’s another excellent Barnardo’s shop in the Stockbridge area - more of which later).
Set up by two lecturers from Edinburgh College of Art, Totty Rocks, in Victoria Street, is choc a block with quirky, girly fashion. I love its scarlet jersey top with oversized spotty bow print, and its tea dresses would be perfect for the garden party - if the Queen ever sees fit to send me an invite.
Iconic, at 23 Grassmarket, is home to an assortment of antique collectables, homewares and costume jewellery so is always worth a look. Then continue up the West Port to Godiva, which also has strong connections to the art college. As a result, almost everything you see here will be a one-off, from its recycled sportswear to vintage ra-ra skirts. And at Herman Brown, which has been catering for Edinburgh’s discerning vintage shoppers for decades, you could unearth anything from a groovy 1980s swimsuit to wonderful, one-off bags, scarves and jewellery. A friend even found her wonderful 1950s wedding dress here, in perfect condition.
The pick of the city’s charity shops is arguably in Stockbridge and you could easily spend an entire day rummaging around the shelves of bric-a-brac and rails of clothing. But don’t leave before you’ve also picked up some colourful Butter nail polish or Korres eco-friendly skincare products from DollyLeo Apothecary (which also does fabulous facials and hot shaves for men). And in St Stephen Street, Elaine’s Vintage Clothing may be small but packs as punch - recent gems have included several Jean Muir pieces and a gloriously psychedelic silk kimono. Beware, though, of her equally quirky opening times.
And if you still have any pennies left over after that little lot, you could do worse than nip into Belinda Robertson’s knitwear emporium in Dundas Street. Her exquisitely colourful cashmere knickers, complete with oversized satin bow at the back, may not be the most practical of undergarments. Nor do they come particularly cheap. But as a memorable souvenir of your time in Scotland, they certainly beat a stick of Edinburgh rock.
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